Situated just across the road from the Europa Hotel, The Malt Room is the latest venture by Lord Rana and Chef Raymond McArdle. Serving fine food by the best local artisan producers, this has been on my restaurant bucket list for a while now.
As we enter the restaurant, we are greeted by a dark grey interior which, offset by chandeliers and a sweeping staircase, which creates an atmosphere of sheer elegance. A waiter greets us, and briefly motions to our table, rushing off to get menus, which is a bit disappointing, as I know people who have been here before who have raved about the service.
Check out the available menus here. We order from the Early Evening Menu which is two courses for £14.95 and is served between 5pm and 7pm daily. The menu can only be described as ‘fancy’, and as our starters arrive, it is clear that this is definitely fine dining. The colcannon soup with Guinness wheaten is poured into the bowl before our very eyes – a simple touch, which really makes a bowl of soup seem like something special. It is delicious, and the wheaten bread is served warm – another nice touch. However, the winter vegetable salad, with filo crisps and black truffle dressing isn’t to my taste, it’s a little bitter and served ice cold, but a few others in my party loved it.
Next up, for the main course I order the soft braised beef brisket, creamed spinach, potato puree and light pepper cream which was amazing. The beef just falls apart and the light pepper cream is creamy rather than peppery which is a different, yet nice take on the more traditional pepper sauce. The pulled pork croquette, Brendan Guinnan’s vegetables and anise sauce is equally as delicious and the goujonettes of grey sole, thick cut chips and roast garlic and chive roulle is another winner. Overall, the food is good, the concept is great, yet the execution just doesn’t seem to be quite right just yet; for us the service was a bit slow and not overly attentive which marred the evening a little. That being said, the food was interesting and The Malt Room is definitely worth a second try.
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